設計獎項新訊 │ 維多利亞與亞伯特博物館-香奈兒時裝特展

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is the first UK exhibition dedicated to the work of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, charting the establishment of the House of CHANEL and the evolution of her iconic design style.The lighting design was key in allowing visitors to appreciate the objects with their exquisite details, forms, textures and materiality in close viewing – achieved at low conservation light levels whilst also creating a wider luminous, elegant layered lightscape within the exhibition world they inhabit.

Inspired by Storey Studio’s approach, the Studio proposed the visitors experience the objects under subtly shifting light treatments, moving through the sections from morning, noon, afternoon, dusk to night time in both exterior and interior, rural and urban contexts. At times this was abstracted:in the entrance sequences with fresh crisp morning lightand in the perfume room where an effect of beams of light passing through a gold liquid perfume bottle was created. At other times, more suggestive in the evening wear section through elegantly shifting dappled light supporting both thematic narrative and evoking mood, contemplation and wonder.

With 200 objects of fashion, textile, accessories and photography, such sensitive works required careful choreography and by working closley with the designers an exciting and varied visual journey was created throughout the show.

All the light fixtures specified are LED and a large number of these feature dynamic white controls to ensure flexible re-use in the future by the museum for other exhibitions. the Studio always champion first using fixtures and equipment available in the museum stock to reduce waste and promote re-use. Working with their technicians and manufacturers; existing stock light fixtures are upgraded regularly with high colour rendering LED chips reduce waste of fixture bodies.

Any fixtures purchased specially for the show are supplied by UK-based manufacturers and the Studio keep detailed records of these and provides de-install guidelines to ensure they can be easily reused in the next exhibitions ensuring a long life for these fittings.

Gabrielle Chanel。《時尚宣言》是英國首個以加布里埃爾「可可」·香奈兒作品為主題的展覽，講述香奈兒品牌的創立歷程與其標誌性設計風格的演變。燈光設計成為關鍵元素，使觀眾能夠在低照度保護下細緻欣賞展品的細節、輪廓、紋理與材質，同時營造出一個層次分明、明亮且優雅的展覽氛圍。

展場燈光設計靈感源自 Storey Studio 的方法，鼓勵觀眾在微妙變化的光影中體驗展品，猶如從早晨到夜晚、從鄉村到都市、從室外到室內的流動場景。有時是抽象表現，例如入口處以清晨的光感迎賓，香水區則模擬金黃色液體中透出的光束。另一些展區則更具情境暗示，例如晚裝區透過優雅斑駁的光線，強化主題敘述，也引發觀者的情感、沉思與驚嘆。

展覽共展出 200 件時尚服飾、紡織品、配件與攝影作品，這些極為敏感的展品需經精密策劃。透過與設計師的密切合作，整體展覽成為一次令人陶醉、視覺豐富的旅程。

所有燈具皆採用 LED，其中許多具備可調式白光功能，確保未來能靈活應用於其他展覽。工作室始終優先考量使用博物館現有設備，以降低資源浪費並促進重複利用。技術團隊與製造商密切合作，定期將現有燈具升級為高顯色性的 LED 晶片，避免更換整體燈具，延長其使用壽命。

凡為展覽專門採購的燈具，皆選用英國製造產品，並建立詳細檔案與拆卸指南，以利未來展覽再度使用，確保每一項設備得以延續其價值。